5/07/2016

cosplay: Dharma suit (LOST) #2: waistcoat part


Hey, guys!
Yesterday, I officially started sewing my cosplay. After the preparation LINK I had, I planned out the three days, I scheduled for finishing the costume and yesterday was the first of these days. I sewed the waistcoat part of the jumpsuit, including the Dharma logo, the breast pockets, the zipper, sewing on the back part and the belt loops. I am quite satisfied with yesterday's result. Here we go:
The parts needed today

The seccond step: the waistcoat part
(important: I double- sewed every seam!)
While preparing the cosplay, I already hand- sewed three press buttons on the inner side of form B1 (outer press buttons) and the outer side of form A2 (inner press btttons). There, it is really important to adapt the distance of each botton to the other side so that the two parts can actually be buttoned together without any folds.

2.1. Sewing on the Dharma logo 
I am going to make a seperate tutorial on how I created the Dharma logo soon (LINK).
For this step, I fixed the logo with a needle to the right position on form B2 (outer left side part). To fix the fabric, I used a straight, normal stitch and sewed around the logo. Then, to smoothen the edges, I sewed with a tight zig- zag- stich.

2.2. The backpart (C)
The backpart form is C. On the collar part, I put C+ and then sewed those two together and turned the whole thing over to the right side. As you can see, the edges of the collar now look a lot smoother and are strengthened by the C+ part. To fix the C+ part to the backpart (C), I then sewed the botton edge of C+ to C.
2.3. The breast pockets (2x)


For the breast pockets, I first sewed on an outer press button to the outer side of E and an inner press button to the inner side of D1. I then sewed together D1 and D2 so that after turning it arond to the right side, the butto can be seen. This is the backpart of the pocket. Beforte sewing on E, the front part, I first whipstitched the edge above the press button. I then layed E and D on each other, both buttons looking downwards and sewed it together at the right, left and bottom side of E, not at the top side, because this is where the bag will beopened. Turnong the pocket around, it can now be closed with the press buttons and is firm and ready to be sewed on.
To sew the pocket on the fabric (form A2 and B2, a little right under the Dharma logo (B2) and then symmetrical on the other side), I pinched it to the forms with a needle and then sewed round the outher edges of the pocket. At the top edge, you have to be careful, that you do not sew on E as well, because the pocket would not be openable anymore then. As the pocket is sewed on now, I closed it with the press button and sewed along the top edge of the whole pocket.

2.4. Sewing together the upper parts (2x)
As for preparation for the next step, I sewed together C (backpart) with A2 and B2 (outer left/ right part). for this, I layed C and A2 left side on left side and then sewed from the begining of where the sleeve will be sewed in to the end of form C. So, I only sewed together the sides, sparing out space for the sleeve. The same thing I did with B2




2.5. The belt loops










For the belt loops, I had 6 pieces of form H+ and 8 pieces of form H. I now sewed together always two pieces of one form (with sparing out a small whole, with which I can turn the pieces around to the right side), so that I had H+ 3 times and H 4 times. After turning thise pieces on the right side, I sewed the right and left edge of each to make it look like the original and make it become a little flatter.
To sew this pieces to the fabric (forms A2, B2 and C), I firsted stitched a needle through it to fix the form and the sewed the top and botton edges. Two H parts are positioned a little right underneath the pockets, the other 2 H parts are just in the middle of A2/B2 and C and the three H+ forms are then lined up on C (the backpart). Be careful that all parts are sewed on at approximately the same height so that you will later be able to pull through a belt straightly.













2.6. The zipper
The zipper is placed between A and B on the front. It goes from the seccond press button on the top to the leg's beggining part on the bottom.
I first layed the zipper left side on left side on form A2 and sewed it on. When you now look at A2 from the front, the zipper is sewed on from the other side, so its left edge is behind A2. I then turned it around (left side) and put A1 left side on left side on the zipper and sewed it on. on the left side, the zipper now is fixed firmly.
As ther is going to be a small part of fabric blanketing the zipper on the right side (B) as a zipper protection, I made this side a little diffrently. By closing the three press buttons, I estimated, how far this zipper protection part would go. At this line, I the zipper on part B1 (the part with the inner press buttons and sewed it on. Now, the zipper is not placed right and the edge of B1, but B1 goes further as you can see on picture 3. I then layed B2 on B1 left side to left side and sewed bothe together. Now, I had a front part with a covered and firmly fixed zipper.

2.7. Finish
As you can see on the picture, at the end of the day, I had completed the waistcoast part.
To strengthern the seams, I ironed the whole thing afterwards and layed it down sleekly. Tomorrow, I plan to sew the sleeves, sew them to the waistcoat part and, in doing so, also sew on the backpart C and the legparts.

I hope, my explainations were understandable. I had a lot of fun doing this and I am looking forward to the next sewing session. I hope you have a great day and I will see you tomorrow!

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